This step-by-step guide walks you through the essentials — from choosing your niche to pricing your products correctly.

Choose Your Niche

Identify a specific market segment to focus on, such as personalised pet accessories, custom sportswear, or corporate promotional items. Specialising helps you stand out and cater to a targeted audience.

Acquire Essential Equipment

To get started with sublimation, you’ll need a few key tools:

Develop Your Designs

Create unique and appealing designs that resonate with your target audience. Staying aware of trends, seasons, and holidays helps keep your products fresh and relevant.

Offering customisation options — such as names, dates, colours, or wording — can add extra value and make your products more appealing to customers.

Make sure you test your designs regularly and refine them based on real-world results, as what looks good on screen doesn’t always translate perfectly to fabric or hard surfaces.

Set Up an Online Presence

Establish an online store using platforms such as Etsy, Shopify, or your own website. Use social media channels to showcase your products, engage with customers, and build your brand.

Market Your Business

Consistent marketing is what turns a hobby into a business.

Effective strategies to consider include:

• Social media advertising – Targeted ads to reach your ideal customer
• Email marketing – Newsletters, promotions, and product launches
• Collaborations – Partnering with influencers, creators, or local businesses

You don’t need to do everything at once — start small, test what works, and build from there.

Manage Orders and Customer Service

Smooth operations matter just as much as great products. Ensure orders are processed accurately and on time, maintain clear communication around turnaround times, and respond promptly to customer enquiries.

Strong customer service encourages repeat business, positive reviews, and word-of-mouth referrals.

The key is understanding your real costs, setting a fair profit margin, and pricing with confidence. This guide breaks down a simple, practical approach to pricing sublimation products so you can cover your expenses, pay yourself for your time, and grow a sustainable business.

Calculate Your Costs

Before setting a price, know exactly what it costs to produce each item. Include:

• Blank product cost: For example: $5 for a sublimation mug or $4 for a blank polyester T-shirt
• Sublimation ink & paper: Usually just a few cents per print, but factor it in
• Heat press energy & maintenance: Small but real — estimate a few cents per item
• Packaging & shipping materials: Boxes, mailers, bubble wrap, tissue paper, labels, tape, and any branded packaging
• Design time: If you create custom artwork or personalise designs, decide on an hourly rate for your time and factor this into each order
• Labor time: How long does it take to print, press, quality-check, pack, and ship?
• Platform and payment fees: Selling online? Remember to include transaction fees, payment gateway fees, marketplace fees
• Wastage, test prints, and errors: Allow for misprints, test runs, colour checks, and the occasional damaged blank. A small buffer helps protect your margins over time
• Business overheads: Sometimes we overlook things like software subscriptions, website hosting, marketing, insurance, and general business expenses. You may also need to factor GST into your pricing as your business grows and registration becomes required.

Add Your Desired Profit Margin

Research Your Market

Take time to research pricing in your niche.

• Look on Etsy and online marketplaces
• Check local competitors
• Browse small business websites selling similar products

What do others charge for similar items? You don’t want to be the cheapest option. Pricing too low can devalue your work and make your business unsustainable. Aim to be competitive while still allowing for a healthy profit.

Use a Simple Pricing Formula

A straightforward pricing formula is:

Total Cost per Item + (Total Cost x Desired Markup %) = Retail Price

Example for a T-shirt:

• Blank T-shirt: $4.00
• Ink, paper, electricity: $0.50
• Packaging materials: $1.00
• Labour and design time: $2.00
• Platform and payment fees: $0.75
• Wastage and test prints allowance: $0.50
• Business overhead contribution: $0.75

True cost per item: $9.50

If you apply a 100% markup:

• Profit: $9.50
• Suggested retail price: $19.00

Pricing Tip
Round prices to sensible retail numbers rather than exact calculations. Customers respond better to clean, confident pricing than awkward cents.

Don’t Forget to Include Shipping

Decide whether you will:

• Offer free shipping and build it into your product price, or
• Charge shipping separately at checkout

Many customers are drawn to free shipping, even if the cost is included in the product price. Whichever option you choose, clarity is key.

Revisit Prices Regularly

Pricing should be reviewed regularly, not set once and forgotten.

• As you become faster and more efficient, your costs may decrease
• If demand increases, you may be able to raise prices
• New expenses such as equipment servicing or packaging upgrades should always be factored in

Pricing dye-sublimation products is not about guessing or copying the lowest price you see online. It is about understanding your costs, valuing your time, and setting prices that support long-term growth.

When you price with confidence and intention, you are not just selling a product, you are building a business that can grow, adapt, and succeed.

Here’s everything you need to know.

What Happens After You Print?

Dye-sublimation prints are typically created using special sublimation paper and ink. Once printed, the ink is still in a solid, powdered state. Until heat and pressure are applied, the ink remains inactive—but that doesn’t mean it’s immune to damage!

The Risks of Poor Storage

Storing your prints incorrectly can lead to:

• Faded colours or dull results
• Ink smudging or transference
• Paper curling or warping
• Dust, moisture, or oil contamination

Best Practices for Storing Dye-Sub Prints

1. Let Prints Dry First

Allow your prints to dry completely before stacking or storing. Most dye-sub printers will produce a dry-to-the-touch print, but it’s best to leave them for at least 5–10 minutes before handling further.

2. Keep Them Flat

Avoid curling or folding. Store your prints flat, ideally in a plastic document tray, portfolio folder, or between sheets of clean butcher paper.

3. Avoid Direct Sunlight

UV light can prematurely activate or degrade the dye. Always store prints in a cool, dark place, away from windows or heat sources.

4. Control Humidity

Moisture can damage the paper and affect the ink's performance. Aim to store in a dry environment, ideally with humidity below 60%. Avoid bathrooms, laundry rooms, or garages.

5. Don’t Stack Face-to-Face

If you need to stack multiple prints, place a clean sheet of plain paper (such as copy paper) between them to avoid ink offsetting or transfer.

6. Avoid Finger Oils

Handle prints by the edges. Oils from your hands can interfere with ink activation, especially in detailed areas.

Tip: Consider wearing cotton gloves if you're working with a large batch of prints.

How Long Can They Be Stored?

For best results, press within 1–2 weeks of printing. However, when stored correctly, many users report good results even after a month or more. Just remember—the longer you wait, the greater the risk of fading or reduced vibrancy.

Ideal Storage Materials

• Acid-free document folders or art portfolios
• Archival-quality plastic sleeves
• Resealable plastic tubs with silica gel packets
• Clipboards or large flat books (as long as prints are protected between pages)

What to Avoid

• Rolling your prints
• Storing in plastic bags without airflow
• Exposing to fluctuating temperatures (like near an aircon or heater)
• Letting pets or children near them (accidents happen!)

Planning ahead with your dye-sublimation printing is smart—but only if your storage game is just as strong. With a few precautions, your prints will stay crisp and vibrant, ready to transfer beautifully when the time is right.

Why HTV Size & Placement Matters

The size and placement of your Heat Transfer Vinyl design can make or break the final look of a t-shirt. Even a great design can feel off if it isn’t sized or positioned correctly.

• A design that’s too small can look lost on the shirt.
• A design that’s too large may feel overwhelming or can become distorted when worn.
• It’s also worth remembering that not all t-shirts are created equal. Differences in cut, fit, and fabric can change how a design sits once the shirt is worn.

For example:

• V-neck shirts usually need the design placed slightly lower
• Ladies’ fitted tees often suit slightly smaller, more proportioned designs
• Oversized shirts can handle larger designs without looking crowded

When in doubt, size for the body rather than the shirt size on the tag, and focus on how the design looks overall rather than relying on exact measurements.

Common HTV Design Placements

1. Left Chest
   • Small logos or text
   • Common for workwear and uniforms
2. Centre Chest
   • Positioned just below the collar
   • Best for logos, quotes, and feature designs
3. Full Front
   • Larger statement designs
   • Often used for bold graphics or promotional shirts
4. Back (Under Collar, Upper or Full)
   • Often paired with a left-chest front logo
   • Great for team names, slogans, or numbers

HTV Design Sizes (Guide Only)

The size of your HTV design plays a big role in how balanced it looks on a finished t-shirt. These guidelines are a starting point, not strict rules, and should always be adjusted based on the design shape and the style of the shirt.

Design Width

For most full-width front designs, a good rule of thumb is to size the design to around 50% of the width of the shirt, centred. This helps the design look balanced without overwhelming the garment.

For left-chest designs, a simple guideline is to size the design to around 25% of the width of the shirt. This keeps the design neat and proportional without stretching across the chest area.

Design Height (Square vs Rectangle)

We’ve talked about the width of a design, but height matters just as much.

Designs that are square, wide, or compact will sit differently on a shirt compared to designs that are tall and narrow. A long vertical design can appear smaller than expected, even if the width seems correct.

Tip: Tall, narrow designs may need to be slightly wider than square designs to look balanced on the shirt.

As with width, it’s always best to do a visual check before pressing to make sure the design feels well-proportioned once the shirt is worn.

Where Should the Design Sit Vertically?

Getting the vertical placement right is just as important as sizing your HTV design. A design placed too high can feel cramped, while one placed too low can look unbalanced.

Vertical Alignment Guidelines

As a general guide, position the top of your design based on the shirt style:

• Crew neck shirts: Start about 5-7 cm (2-3 inches) down from the bottom of the collar
• V-neck shirts: Place the design slightly lower so it sits comfortably below the V shape
• Kids’ shirts: Start around 2.5-5 cm (1-2 inches) down, depending on the shirt size

These measurements are a guide only and may need slight adjustment depending on the design shape and shirt style.

Centre Chest Placement Rule

To centre your design accurately:

1. Lay the t-shirt flat on a table or pressing surface
2. Fold the shirt vertically to find the centre, then smooth it flat
3. Measure 5-7 cm down from the bottom of the collar
4. Place the top of your design at that point

This helps ensure the design sits naturally on the chest and not too close to the neckline.

Using an Alignment Ruler

If you want a quick and consistent way to centre your HTV designs, a T-Shirt Alignment Ruler can be a handy tool. It sits against the collar and clearly marks the centre line, helping you position designs at the correct height without guesswork.

How to Use an Alignment Ruler with HTV

1. Lay the t-shirt flat on your pressing surface
2. Fold the shirt vertically to find the centre, then smooth it flat
3. Place the alignment ruler against the collar seam
4. Line up your HTV design with the centre markings
5. Remove the ruler and heat press as normal

That’s it — no measuring tapes, no eyeballing, no redoing shirts.

How to Test Your HTV Design Before Pressing

Before committing with heat, always do a visual test.

Easy Testing Methods

• Cut the design from paper or cardstock
• Print the design at actual size
• Place it on the shirt and hold it up or try it on

Step back and ask:

• Does it look centred?
• Does it feel too big or too small?
• Does it sit comfortably when worn?

Measurements are helpful, but your eye is the best tool. If something looks off before pressing, it will still look off after pressing.

Once you understand sizing and placement basics, pressing HTV becomes quicker, more confident, and far more consistent.

In this video, Gary takes a more in-depth look at metallic threads and how to work with them. He discusses what metallic threads are made of, explains why they might break and how you can conquer these threads when they're giving you trouble.

Tote Bag

Christmas Ornament

Mugs

Coasters

Fabirc

Earrings

Bottle Opener

Metal Image

Mouse Pads

Metal Prints

Tiles

Stubby Cooler

Photo Frame Travel Mug

Winter Watercolor Home Decor

Gnome Enamel Mug

Products featured in this video:

We recommend this method as good practice—especially if you plan to tile the same job—so you don’t end up with overlapping designs or excess image areas to crop later.

Please Note: Artspira is regularly updated, so these instructions are accurate at the time of writing but may differ slightly over time.

It is assumed that you already have the artwork saved to the device that has Artspira installed. If you are using artwork provided by Echidna, log in to your Echidna account and download the files directly from our website to your device.

Step 1: Open Artspira & Start a New Project

• Launch the Artspira app on your device.
• At the bottom of the screen, tap the + New button.

 

Step 2: Select the Printing Tab

• Swipe or tap across the top tabs and choose Printing.
• Tap Design Editor to start building your sublimation layout.

 

Step 3: Choose Your Paper Size

• Under the paper settings, select the paper size you’ll be printing on.
• Leave the other settings at their default values.
• Tap Done.

 

Step 4: Add a Basic Shape

• At the bottom of the screen, under Add Objects, choose Design.
• Choose Basic Shape and then select the Basic Shape tab, scroll down and select a shape that best represents your blank (e.g. circle, square, rectangle).
• Tap Done to confirm and add the shape to your canvas.

Step 5: Resize the Shape to Add Bleed

Measure the height and width of your blank using a ruler or tape measure. To ensure full coverage and avoid white edges, add a 5mm bleed on each side.

Example: If your blank is 70mm x 70mm, resize your shape to be 5mm larger in both width and height, making it 75mm x 75mm.

To resize:

• Tap the shape to select it.
• Tap Layout.
• Scroll down to Height and Width.
• Untick the Lock Aspect Ratio icon if the length and width are different.
• Enter the new measurements.
• Tap the ✔ tick icon/Done in the top-left corner of the popup to apply your changes.

This shape now acts as your artwork boundary.

Step 6: Duplicate the Shape

We duplicate the shape so we can apply artwork independently while keeping consistent sizing.

• Tap the shape.
• Tap the three vertical dots in the bottom-right corner.
• Select Duplicate.
• For this example, enter “2” (you’ll now have two shapes).
• Tap the ✔ tick icon/Done to apply.

 

Step 7: Remove Border, Add Your Artwork & Resize

Firstly, let’s remove the border from the top shape. This prevents a visible outline from being printed around your artwork, which can transfer onto your blank if the sizing isn’t exact.

• Select the top shape.
• Tap Fill at the bottom.
• Under the Color tab.
• Select the Line sub-tab, choose the transparent option (swatch with red line).

Now to add your image:

• Still under Fill settings, switch to the Image tab.
• Choose your image folder.
• Select your image.
• Tap the ✔ tick icon/Done to apply.

(Optional) Resize or Reposition the Image

• Tap and drag to position your image inside the shape.
• Or use the settings under Layout to rotate, flip or resize (refer to Step 5) the design as needed.
  Tip: Use the shape with the outline as your boundary guideline.

Step 8: Group the Two Shapes

Select and Group

• Tap one of the shapes.
• Tap the three vertical dots in the bottom-right corner.
• Choose Multi-Select.
• Tap and drag your finger around both shapes to select them, then tap Done, you now have the two shapes selected.

Centre Align (Optional)

• While the two shapes are selected tap Layout.
• Scroll down to alignment icons and click the centre horizontally and the centre vertically icons.
• Tap the ✔ tick icon/Done to apply changes.

Select and Group Cont.

• Whilst you still have the two shapes selected tap the three vertical dots again → select Group
• Your objects should now be grouped.

 

Step 9: Tile Your Design (Optional)

To print multiple of the same design on one page:

• Select the grouped shapes.
• Tap the three vertical dots in the bottom-right corner.
• Select Duplicate.
• Tap the Tile tab.
• Use the horizontal and vertical options to tile across the page.
• If the layout won’t fit, Artspira will display an error.
• Tap the ✔ tick icon/Done to apply.

Tip: If you want each tile to have a different image, ungroup them, then update the image within each shape.

Step 10: Print Your Design

• Tap Done in the top-right corner.
• Save your project if prompted.
• You’ll be taken to the Preview screen.
• Select your printer and adjust print settings as needed.
• Tap Print.

Products featured in this video:

We’re all familiar with fluorescent dyes like those used in highlighter pens. These dyes look bright because they take in light of a variety of colours and then transmit it back as a single colour. For example, a green highlighter’s ink absorbs the white light which hits it and shines it all back as an intense green colour. Glow in the dark products take this one step further. They use very clever chemicals which absorb and store the energy from light, then emit it steadily over minutes or even hours. The process has the catchy name of “Phosphorescence”. Usually the light given off is an eerie whitish green glow. Dyes can be added to create other colours, but they won’t be as bright as the whitish green.

Getting the most glow

It’s important to remember that the thread needs to be “charged up” with light before it will glow. This only takes a few seconds of bright light (or up to a minute for the full effect). If it’s quickly moved into darkness, you’ll then get a glow for several minutes before it gradually fades out. The trick to getting the best effect is using the right type of light: Standard light bulbs (particularly LED and incandescent) don’t work very well. Although they look bright to humans, they don’t put out the type of light that charges glow in the dark thread effectively Fluorescent tubes and compact fluorescents work slightly better Direct sunlight is the best choice, a few seconds are enough for a bright charge. However, it’s hard to switch off! You’ll need to quickly move to a dark room to see the glow, and it can take some time for your eyes to adjust. Blacklights (UV bulbs) are by far the best option. They can charge up the thread but aren’t visible to the human eye so the thread appears super bright in a dark room.

Creating a vibrant glow in the dark!

You’ll find UV torches available cheaply online. They work well, and are easy to give to the kids to play with in the dark. We use them at events to demonstrate the thread, even in a bright room. For the best possible result, replace a room light or lamp with a compact fluorescent (CFL) blacklight (available from Bunnings for about $15). They’ll give the thread a very bright and long lasting glow!

Applications

For the best applications of glow in the dark thread, think about situations where the item will go suddenly from a bright area into the dark – on a shirt walking into a cinema, a stuffed toy on the bed, even a quilt. With a bit of thought you can hide the glow thread beneath another design, revealing something spooky when the lights go out! You’ll be amazed how long it can keep kids entertained.

Softlight Glow in the Dark thread is available in a 6-spool sample pack, or on individual 800m spools.

Embroidery design stitched by Carolyn Keber

Image source: Echidna Sewing & Embroidery Facebook Community

Recommended designs

Glow in the Dark thread is a fantastic choice for adding a unique touch to various projects. This type of thread is perfect for Halloween costumes, party outfits, pajamas, Christmas ornaments, and even sportswear. It can be used with an assortment of different designs. For the best glow effect, larger, more open designs are fantastic to showcase the thread. These designs typically feature fewer dense stitches, which allows the thread to cover more surface area and capture more light. Additionally, using Glow in the Dark thread in decorative stitching or quilting can add an enchanting element to your creations. Whether you're working on embroidery or sewing projects, this thread can make your designs truly stand out in the dark. View embroidery designs →

Urban Threads offers a captivating collection of machine embroidery designs that are perfect for adding a luminous touch to your projects with Glow in the Dark thread. With a variety of themes and styles, there's something for every embroidery enthusiast to enjoy! View designs →

A Pirate's Lair Embroidery Design by Echidna Sewing

Have a go at our free projects!

Looking for some inspiration to use that gorgeous Glow in the Dark thread?
Use our free projects to create your very own gift for yourself or someone special whether it's for a special occasion or just for fun!

Brother ScanNCut mats are an essential part of your cutting experience — they hold your materials in place for clean, precise cuts. But over time, you may notice your mat isn’t as sticky as it once was. Don’t worry — this is completely normal! Mats are considered consumable items, which means they’re designed to wear out and be replaced after a period of use. However, with the right care, you can help extend the life of your mat and get the most out of it.

Why Is My ScanNCut Mat Losing Stickiness?

Several factors can cause a mat to lose its stickiness. Let's take a look.

Dust and fibres

Paper fibres, fabric lint, and general dust can build up on the surface of the mat, reducing its grip.

Oils from hands

Excessive touching of the sticky area can transfer natural oils, making the mat less effective.

Heavy or repeated use

Some materials are harder on mats than others, and frequent cutting sessions will naturally reduce stickiness over time.

Deep cuts or blade pressure damage

Even if you haven’t cut all the way through, repeated deep cuts or high blade pressure can damage the mat’s surface and adhesive layer, reducing its ability to grip materials effectively.

Improper storage

Leaving your mat uncovered or storing it in a dusty or humid environment can also shorten its lifespan.

How to Make Your Mat Last Longer

Here are some practical tips to extend the life of your mat:

Keep it covered

Always replace the clear protective sheet after use to prevent dust and fibres from settling.

Use a brayer or roller

Press your material onto the mat with a roller instead of your hands to avoid oil transfer.

Rotate the mat usage

If you're always using one area of the mat, try rotating it to spread the wear more evenly.

Keep it clean

Gently clean your mat with a baby wipe (alcohol-free and fragrance-free) or a damp cloth to remove residue. Avoid over-scrubbing.

Use the right mat for the job

Brother offers mats with different grip strengths — using the correct one for your material can prevent unnecessary wear.

Avoid fibrous materials

Materials like felt, glitter cardstock, and flocked vinyl can leave fibres or residue behind, which build up on the mat and reduce its tackiness over time.

If you can’t avoid these practices or prevent using these materials — that’s okay! Just be aware they’ll leave more mess behind, and you may need to replace your mat more often.

Getting a Little More Life Out of Your Mat

If your mat has lost most of its stick but is still in reasonable condition, you might be able to get a bit more use out of it by using washi tape or a temporary adhesive spray/glue to hold your material in place. Just keep in mind — this workaround doesn’t suit all materials, and it may not be reliable for intricate or high-speed cuts.

When It’s Time to Replace

Even with perfect care, mats don’t last forever. If your mat no longer holds materials in place, causes inaccurate cuts, or is visibly worn or damaged, it’s time for a replacement.

Shop ScanNCut Mats →