To sew on a button by machine, you'll generally need a button sewing or button fitting foot, along with a zigzag stitch. The feed dogs are lowered or covered so the fabric stays in place while the needle moves from side to side through the holes of the button.

In this video, we'll show you how to position your button, set the correct zigzag width and safely check the needle position before sewing.

Before You Start

The exact settings and accessories can vary between sewing machines, so check your machine's manual to see whether it supports sewing on buttons and which presser foot is recommended.

Important: Before sewing, always turn the handwheel towards you slowly to check that the needle passes cleanly through both holes of the button. If the needle touches the button, adjust the zigzag width or reposition the button before using the foot controller or Start/Stop button.

Once everything is aligned correctly, a few stitches are all it takes to secure your button in place.

We’re all familiar with fluorescent dyes like those used in highlighter pens. These dyes look bright because they take in light of a variety of colours and then transmit it back as a single colour. For example, a green highlighter’s ink absorbs the white light which hits it and shines it all back as an intense green colour. Glow in the dark products take this one step further. They use very clever chemicals which absorb and store the energy from light, then emit it steadily over minutes or even hours. The process has the catchy name of “Phosphorescence”. Usually the light given off is an eerie whitish green glow. Dyes can be added to create other colours, but they won’t be as bright as the whitish green.

Getting the most glow

It’s important to remember that the thread needs to be “charged up” with light before it will glow. This only takes a few seconds of bright light (or up to a minute for the full effect). If it’s quickly moved into darkness, you’ll then get a glow for several minutes before it gradually fades out. The trick to getting the best effect is using the right type of light: Standard light bulbs (particularly LED and incandescent) don’t work very well. Although they look bright to humans, they don’t put out the type of light that charges glow in the dark thread effectively Fluorescent tubes and compact fluorescents work slightly better Direct sunlight is the best choice, a few seconds are enough for a bright charge. However, it’s hard to switch off! You’ll need to quickly move to a dark room to see the glow, and it can take some time for your eyes to adjust. Blacklights (UV bulbs) are by far the best option. They can charge up the thread but aren’t visible to the human eye so the thread appears super bright in a dark room.

Creating a vibrant glow in the dark!

You’ll find UV torches available cheaply online. They work well, and are easy to give to the kids to play with in the dark. We use them at events to demonstrate the thread, even in a bright room. For the best possible result, replace a room light or lamp with a compact fluorescent (CFL) blacklight (available from Bunnings for about $15). They’ll give the thread a very bright and long lasting glow!

Applications

For the best applications of glow in the dark thread, think about situations where the item will go suddenly from a bright area into the dark – on a shirt walking into a cinema, a stuffed toy on the bed, even a quilt. With a bit of thought you can hide the glow thread beneath another design, revealing something spooky when the lights go out! You’ll be amazed how long it can keep kids entertained.

Softlight Glow in the Dark thread is available in a 6-spool sample pack, or on individual 800m spools.

Embroidery design stitched by Carolyn Keber

Image source: Echidna Sewing & Embroidery Facebook Community

Recommended designs

Glow in the Dark thread is a fantastic choice for adding a unique touch to various projects. This type of thread is perfect for Halloween costumes, party outfits, pajamas, Christmas ornaments, and even sportswear. It can be used with an assortment of different designs. For the best glow effect, larger, more open designs are fantastic to showcase the thread. These designs typically feature fewer dense stitches, which allows the thread to cover more surface area and capture more light. Additionally, using Glow in the Dark thread in decorative stitching or quilting can add an enchanting element to your creations. Whether you're working on embroidery or sewing projects, this thread can make your designs truly stand out in the dark. View embroidery designs →

Urban Threads offers a captivating collection of machine embroidery designs that are perfect for adding a luminous touch to your projects with Glow in the Dark thread. With a variety of themes and styles, there's something for every embroidery enthusiast to enjoy! View designs →

A Pirate's Lair Embroidery Design by Echidna Sewing

Have a go at our free projects!

Looking for some inspiration to use that gorgeous Glow in the Dark thread?
Use our free projects to create your very own gift for yourself or someone special whether it's for a special occasion or just for fun!

You might have found the perfect image. Maybe it’s your business logo, a cute graphic you purchased online, or something you created yourself. You save it as a JPEG or PNG, load it into your embroidery machine, and nothing happens. No preview. No stitching. Just frustration.
The issue isn’t the design. It’s the file type.

Embroidery machines don’t work with images the way computers do, and once you understand why, everything else starts to make sense.

Why Image Files Don’t Work on Embroidery Machines

Embroidery machines don’t “see” pictures like we do. They don’t recognise colours, outlines, or shapes visually. Instead, they follow instructions.

A proper embroidery file tells the machine:

• Where to start stitching
• What direction the stitches should go
• How many stitches to use
• What type of stitch to apply
• When to change thread colour or trim

A JPEG or PNG doesn’t contain any of this information. It’s just pixels, which are perfect for screens but useless for a needle.

An embroidery file such as PES, JEF, or DST, however, contains all of these stitch instructions and can communicate them directly to your machine. If you’re unsure which format your machine supports, you can learn more about the different embroidery file formats here.

To get from picture to stitches, you need a conversion process called digitizing.

A simple way to think about it is this:

• A JPEG is a picture of a finished cake.
• An embroidery file is the full recipe, including ingredients, method, and baking instructions.

What Digitizing Actually Does

Digitizing is the process of turning a flat image into a set of instructions your embroidery machine can follow. This isn’t automatic. It’s part technical, part creative, and completely essential.

When a design is digitized, someone, or software, makes deliberate decisions about how that design will physically stitch onto fabric. These decisions include:

• Stitch types – Should an area be satin stitch, fill stitch, or run stitch?
• Stitch angle and direction – This affects the sheen, texture, and movement of the thread.
• Density – How close the stitches are. Too loose and the fabric shows through. Too tight and you risk puckering or thread breaks.
• Underlay – Hidden support stitches that stabilise the fabric underneath.
• Start and stop points and trims – To prevent unnecessary jumps and messy thread paths.
• Thread colour changes – So the machine pauses at the correct times.

If this sounds complex, that’s because it is.

Digitizing is what brings a design to life. Without it, even the best-looking artwork can stitch out poorly.

It’s also important to understand that embroidery is three-dimensional. Stitches sit on top of the fabric, creating height and texture. Stitch direction, layering, and thread build-up are all part of the digitizing plan.

If you’ve ever seen an embroidery design that looks smooth, balanced, and dimensional, you’ve seen good digitizing at work.

Should You Digitize Yourself or Outsource It?

Now that you understand what digitizing is, the next question is practical. Do you digitize your own designs, or do you hire someone else to do it?

Option 1: Digitize It Yourself Using Software

If you enjoy learning new skills and want full control over your designs, digitizing your own files can be very rewarding. However, it does take time, practice, and the right software.

There are digitizing programs available for different experience levels, from beginner-friendly options through to advanced commercial software. Each offers different tools, levels of control, and learning curves.

Digitizing is a skill, just like embroidery itself. Results improve over time as you learn how stitches behave on different fabrics.

View Digitizing Softwares →

Option 2: Outsource to a Professional Digitizer

Many embroiderers start by outsourcing digitizing, and many continue to do so long term.

With outsourcing, you send your image, specify your hoop size and machine format, and receive a ready-to-stitch embroidery file.

Benefits include:

• Fast turnaround
• No learning curve
• Professional results from the start

Things to be aware of:

• Quality can vary between providers
• Cheaper overseas services can be hit or miss, although they can offer great value if you find a reliable one
• Costs can add up if you’re digitizing lots of designs regularly

Tip: You Don’t Have to Choose One Approach
You don’t need to commit to a single method forever. Many small businesses outsource more complex work and use software for simpler designs, adapting as their skills and needs grow.

You Don’t Always Need to Digitize

It’s also worth knowing that you don’t always have to create your own embroidery files.

There are thousands of ready-made embroidery designs and in-the-hoop projects available online. These are already fully digitized and ready to load straight into your machine. You simply purchase the design in the correct file format for your machine and start stitching.

This is how many embroiderers begin. Instead of learning digitizing straight away, they build their skills using professionally created designs.

There are many reputable design providers online, including:

• Echidna Sewing
• Urban Threads
• Kreative Kiwi
• Kimberbell
• Dawn Johnson Designs
• John Deer
• Sweet Pea

These companies specialise in ready-to-stitch embroidery files and in-the-hoop projects, which are designed to work exactly as intended without you needing to adjust or create the stitch data yourself.

For many hobby embroiderers and small businesses, purchasing ready-made designs is the simplest and most cost-effective option.

Digitizing becomes important when:

• You want to create your own custom logos
• You need personalised artwork
• You are building a brand and require original designs
• You want complete control over the stitch structure

If you simply want beautiful projects to stitch, ready-made designs are often the easiest place to start.

Embroidery is more than decoration. It is functional, dimensional art. Every successful stitch-out starts with one thing: a well-digitized file.

A JPEG or PNG shows how a design looks. A digitized embroidery file tells the machine how to stitch it.

Whether you decide to digitize your own designs or partner with a professional, understanding this process is key to achieving better embroidery results and avoiding unnecessary frustration.

Start with the right file, and everything else becomes easier. Your machine can finally do what it was designed to do.

If you’re a crafter, you’ve likely built up a collection of both Heat Transfer Vinyl (HTV) and Adhesive Vinyl. But what if they get mixed up? Here’s how to tell them apart and make sure each one ends up where it belongs, so you’re ready for any project.

1. Understanding Heat Transfer Vinyl (HTV) vs. Adhesive Vinyl

• Heat Transfer Vinyl (HTV): This type of vinyl is designed to bond with fabric when heat is applied. HTV is primarily used on textiles like t-shirts, tote bags, and hats, or any surface that can withstand heat.
  
• Adhesive Vinyl: Adhesive vinyl, on the other hand, has a sticky backing and is used for hard surfaces, such as walls, wood, glass, or plastic. It doesn’t need heat and sticks to surfaces like a sticker.
  

2. Physical Characteristics for Easy Identification

If you’ve mixed HTV and adhesive vinyl in a drawer, here are a few ways to differentiate between them.

• Back Colour and Texture:
  • HTV: Typically has a matte or slightly shiny carrier sheet on the back. This sheet is often clear or frosted, allowing you to see the vinyl’s colour through it. Some HTV sheets might also have a bit of tackiness, helping them stay in place before pressing.
    
  • Adhesive Vinyl: Usually has a paper-like backing with no transparency, which can range from white to a colour (like yellow or blue). The backing paper feels smooth and peels away to reveal the sticky side of the vinyl.
    
• Peeling/Weeding Test:
  Try to peel back the corner gently.
  • HTV: Feels secure to the carrier sheet and is difficult to peel without damaging it.
    
  • Adhesive Vinyl: Peels back easily from the paper backing, revealing its sticky adhesive.
    
• Flexibility and Feel:
  • HTV: Thin and flexible, designed to adhere to fabrics.
  • Adhesive Vinyl: Slightly stiffer and better suited for hard, non-porous surfaces.
• Appearance After Weeding:
  • HTV: Once weeded, the vinyl design remains attached to the clear carrier sheet, ready for heat application.
    
  • Adhesive Vinyl: After weeding, the vinyl design stays on the paper backing until it’s transferred with application tape.
    

3. Simple Tricks to Remember

If you’re organising a mixed drawer, here’s a quick cheat sheet:

• Check for transparency on the backing: Clear backing = HTV; paper backing = adhesive vinyl.
• Label them: Add small labels to new sheets or rolls that say “HTV” or “Adhesive.”
• Create a Storage System: Use dividers or colour-coded labels to keep them separate for easy access.

So, Which Vinyl Should I Use for My Project?

The choice depends on the material you’re working with:

• Use Heat Transfer Vinyl (HTV) for fabrics like t-shirts, tote bags, aprons, and hats. If your project requires heat to transfer a design onto a flexible or wearable item, HTV is your go-to choice.
• Use Adhesive Vinyl for hard surfaces like glass, wood, plastic, metal, or walls. It’s perfect for creating decals, stickers, labels, and home décor projects.

By identifying your vinyl type and matching it to your project, you’ll get the best results every time. Now go forth and create with confidence!

Products featured in this video:

Machines featured in this video:

A knockdown stitch, also sometimes referred to as a laydown stitch, is a light layer of stitching placed underneath an embroidery design to flatten the pile or nap of the fabric and create a smoother surface for the embroidery.

It can make a significant difference when embroidering lettering, monograms and more open designs onto textured fabrics.

How Does a Knockdown Stitch Work?

When Should You Use a Knockdown Stitch?

Knockdown Stitch vs Underlay

Although both stitch underneath the main embroidery, a knockdown stitch and underlay aren't quite the same thing. 

Underlay is generally part of the construction of individual embroidery objects. It supports the top stitches, helps stabilise the fabric and can improve coverage and definition.

A knockdown stitch is generally created beneath a larger section or the entire embroidery design specifically to flatten the surface of a textured fabric.

Think of underlay as supporting the embroidery stitches, while a knockdown stitch is primarily controlling the fabric texture underneath and around the design.

If you're unfamiliar with underlay and the role it plays in an embroidery design, see our Understanding Underlay in Machine Embroidery Designs guide. 

Do You Still Need Topping?

A knockdown stitch can greatly improve embroidery on textured fabrics, but it doesn't necessarily mean you should stop using topping.
Topping helps prevent embroidery stitches from sinking into the fabric, while a knockdown stitch physically holds down the pile surrounding and underneath the design.

Using both can produce an especially clean result on towels and other high-pile fabrics.

If using both, you can stitch the knockdown first, then place the topping over the fabric before continuing with the main embroidery. This can also make the topping easier to remove because it isn't trapped beneath the knockdown stitches.

Not sure which topping or stabilizer to use? See our Guide to Embroidery Stabilizers and Backings for more information. 

Don't Make the Knockdown Too Dense

The purpose of a knockdown stitch isn't to completely cover the fabric with thread.

It should generally remain relatively open — just enough to hold the pile down and provide a smoother area for the embroidery.

Making it unnecessarily dense adds stitches, increases embroidery time and can make the finished area feel stiff.

If you're unfamiliar with how stitch spacing affects an embroidery design, see our Understanding Density in Machine Embroidery Designs guide. 

Creating Knockdown Stitches in Embroidery Software

Some embroidery software can automatically create a knockdown or laydown stitch around an existing embroidery design, while others can be used to create a similar effect manually.

Embrilliance

Embrilliance Enthusiast includes an Add Knockdown Stitch function. The software automatically creates an open stitched area that follows the contour of the selected embroidery design and places it before the design in the sewing sequence.
Settings such as density, stitch length and how far the knockdown extends beyond the design can also be adjusted.

Hatch Embroidery

Hatch refers to this feature as Laydown Stitch.

The Laydown Stitch tool can create a light fill around an entire design or selected objects. Depending on the software version and level, settings including offset, stitch type, spacing, stitch length, angle and thread colour can be adjusted.

Brother PE-Design

PE-Design can also be used to create a knockdown effect.

One method is to use the Embroidery Patch tool to create an outline around the selected design, remove the satin border and apply an open fill such as a Net Fill. The resulting object is then moved before the main embroidery in the sewing order.

Video credit: Nuttall's Sewing Center

Whichever software you use, the principle is the same: create a light, open area of stitching that sews first and holds the fabric pile down before the main embroidery begins.

A Simple Addition That Can Make a Big Difference

Knockdown stitches are particularly useful when you want to embroider an open or delicate design onto a fabric that would otherwise overwhelm it. They don't replace the need for the correct stabilizer, good hooping or topping where required, but they provide another way to control difficult fabric textures. 

If your lettering seems to disappear into a towel or the fibres of a fleece keep poking through your design, adding a knockdown or laydown stitch may be exactly what the project needs.

Knockdown Stitches Help & Resources

Want to learn more about creating knockdown or laydown stitches? We've provided links to information and instructions for some popular embroidery software.

• Hatch Embroidery
• Embrilliance 
• PE Design 

Most embroidery files appear as generic icons on your computer, which means you’re left guessing based on file names or opening each one individually. That’s where Embrilliance Thumbnailer comes in.

It’s a simple tool that saves time, reduces frustration, and makes organising your designs far easier.

Before we look at Thumbnailer, it’s helpful to understand what Embrilliance actually is.

What Is Embrilliance?

Embrilliance is a beginner-friendly (yet powerful) embroidery software suite that allows you to:

• Create and customise designs
• Add lettering and monograms
• Resize or recolour existing designs
• Combine or edit different formats

It’s modular—so you can add more tools as your skills grow. Learn More about Embrilliance →

So, What Is Thumbnailer?

Embrilliance Thumbnailer is actually a standalone tool that works outside the main embroidery software suite. It allows you to:

• See actual preview images of your embroidery files in your computer folders
• No more blank icons or guessing from file names
• Quickly browse, sort, or organise your designs visually

✅ It works with both Windows and Mac
✅ Supports over 30 embroidery file formats (like .PES, .EXP, .JEF, etc.)

Do You Need Thumbnailer?

• If you always open designs from within your software, Thumbnailer might not be essential.
• But if you're like most of us and use File Explorer (Windows) or Finder (Mac) to browse your files before opening or copying to your machine -  then yes, Thumbnailer is a game-changer.

Before & After: What It Looks Like

• Before Thumbnailer: Generic file icons.
  
• After Thumbnailer: Full-colour stitch previews in your folders.
  

How to install and activate it

Installing Thumbnailer is as easy as installing any program on your computer but you will need a serial number during installation. If you purchased this through Echidna your serial number would have been emailed to you.

1. Firstly, head to the official Embrilliance download page: https://embrilliance.com/downloads
2. Scroll down until you see Embrilliance Thumbnailer, then download the correct version for your operating system (Windows or Mac).
3. Locate the file you just downloaded (check your Downloads folder).
4. Double-click the file to run the installer and follow the on-screen prompts.
5. Enter your serial number when prompted.
   
6. Once installed, you should see the Thumbnailer Control Panel on your desktop or in your applications list.

Mac Users: You may need to give permission in System Preferences > Security & Privacy during the install process.

Viewing Your Designs in Folders Overview

After installation, you should see the Thumbnailer icon on your desktop (Windows) or in your Applications folder (Mac). If it’s not visible, try using your system search to locate "Embrilliance Thumbnailer" and launch it.

Once you open the program 

1. You’ll see a list of embroidery file formats such as .pes, .jef, .dst, .hus, and others.
2. Tick the boxes for the formats you want Thumbnailer to recognise and preview.
   
   • Tip: If you're unsure which to choose, it’s perfectly fine to select all.
3. Click “OK!” to save your settings.

You can revisit this panel any time if you want to change which file types are shown.

Open a Folder with Your Designs

Navigate to one of your design folders using File Explorer (Windows) or Finder (Mac) on your computer.
If everything is set up correctly, you’ll now see preview images of your embroidery designs instead of plain or blank icons.

If you don’t see previews:

• Double-check that you selected the correct file formats in the control panel.
• Try restarting your computer.

Adjust Thumbnail Size (Windows)

To change the size of the preview icons:

1. Open a folder containing your designs.
2. In the top menu, click the “View” tab.
3. Select a display size: Extra Large Icons, Large Icons, Medium Icons, or Small Icons.

We recommend using Large or Extra Large to clearly see your embroidery designs.

Frequently Asked Questions

If you’re having an issue, chances are you’re not alone. Here are some common questions and quick solutions:

Q: I installed Thumbnailer but don’t see any previews. What should I check?

• Open the Thumbnailer control panel and ensure your embroidery file formats are selected.
• Try restarting your computer.
• Double-check that your files are in a supported format (like .pes, .jef, .exp, etc.).

Q: Can I use Thumbnailer with other embroidery software?
Yes, Thumbnailer works independently of any specific software. It simply adds previews to your file browser. You can use it whether or not you use the full Embrilliance suite.

Q: Do I need an internet connection to use it?
No. Once Thumbnailer is installed and activated with your serial number, it runs locally on your computer.

Where to Get Help

1. Embrilliance Support: For technical support, bug reports, or activation issues, contact Embrilliance directly: Submit a support ticket
2. The Manual: The Thumbnailer user manual contains step-by-step instructions and a full FAQ section. You can download it from the Embrilliance website: Embrilliance Downloads
3. Community Groups: We recommend joining the Embrilliance users group on Facebook or following support communities like our Echidna Sewing & Embroidery Community Facebook
4. Contact Echidna Sewing: Not sure where to start? We can point you in the right direction. Contact Us 

It can be frustrating, especially when the problem only appears right at the end of the stitch-out. The good news is that, in many cases, it can be avoided with the right stabiliser choice and hooping technique.

Before you read through the full explanation below, watch the video first. Gary explains what design registration is, why it happens, and demonstrates one of our favourite hooping tips for achieving a cleaner, more accurate stitch-out.

What is design registration?

Design registration refers to how accurately the different parts of an embroidery design line up with each other. When people say their “outline doesn’t line up”, they are usually talking about a registration issue.

This can happen for a few reasons. Sometimes the design itself has not been digitised correctly. A poorly digitised design may not include enough pull compensation, meaning no amount of hooping or stabiliser will make it stitch perfectly.

However, if the design is well digitised, registration issues are often caused by fabric movement, fabric stretch, or not enough stabiliser support.

Start with a good-quality design

A badly digitised design will almost always give a poor embroidery result, and outline registration makes this even more noticeable.

If the design has not been created correctly, especially if it lacks pull compensation, the outlines may never line up properly. Before blaming the machine, stabiliser, or hooping, it is worth checking whether the design itself is the issue.

Why does the outline shift?

Let’s assume you have a good design like this simple crab from our Sea Life Blocks 1 (ED-SLB1) range. It’s quite a large design with a stitch count of 29,000.

The photos below are of the same design stitched on the same machine using the same threads, needle, hoop, and tension settings. The only difference is in the stabiliser and hooping technique.

Note the yellow arrows pointing to the poorly stitched outlines in Figure 1, while there are no such issues in Figure 2. It’s not severe and you have probably seen far worse, but it can be easily avoided.

Consider stitching this 29,000 stitch design. Logic says that the seaweed, the swirls and the body of the crab need to stitch prior to the fine satin stitch outline.

In fact, there are 20,521 stitches before the outline even starts stitching.

Pull and push on the fabric is extreme and of course varies depending on the type of fabric and stabilisers in use.

The truth is, the outline has stitched exactly in the same position in both samples, but there has been fabric pull or movement in Figure 1 and none in Figure 2.

The machine is not at fault, nor is the design.

It is entirely hooping technique and stabiliser selection.

The machine is usually not the problem

If the same design stitches correctly using a different stabiliser and hooping method, the issue is not the machine.

It is usually a combination of:

• Fabric movement
• Incorrect stabiliser choice
• Fabric being stretched too tightly in the hoop
• Not enough support for the stitch count
• Hooping that allows the fabric to slip

Our recommended stabiliser and hooping method

The sample in Figure 1 was stitched using a medium commercial-grade cutaway hooped with the fabric. It’s an incredibly stable product, but it didn’t prevent fabric slippage or pull.

The sample in Figure 2 used a different approach:

• A layer of Echidna Fusible Softaway applied to the fabric
• A layer of standard Softaway hooped together
• Plus one of our favourite hooping techniques

The fusible layer helps support the fabric and reduces the chance of stretching while hooping. The additional layer of Softaway provides extra stability during stitching, particularly for larger designs.

Softaway is a wet-laid tearaway stabiliser made from a blend of polyester and natural fibres. It tears away easily without perforating during stitching, making it soft, stable, and suitable for a wide range of embroidery applications.

Our favourite hooping tip

Apply 6mm acid-free, solvent-free double-sided tape around the perimeter of the inner hoop ring, then remove the backing paper before hooping.

This gives the hoop extra grip and helps prevent the fabric from slipping while the design stitches.

One application can often be used for multiple hoopings.

Be sure to use the clear 6mm tape rather than commercial yellow embroidery tape, which can be too tacky for this type of application.

Extra tips for better registration

Use the smallest hoop that will comfortably fit your design. A smaller hoop gives better support and reduces fabric movement.

Avoid pulling the fabric drum-tight. The fabric should be firm and smooth, but not stretched. Stretching the fabric can cause distortion once it relaxes.

For knit fabrics, you may still use Fusible Softaway as the first layer, but consider adding a suitable cutaway stabiliser underneath for extra long-term support and durability.

Design registration issues are frustrating, but they are often preventable.

In most cases, the issue comes down to fabric movement during stitching.

By starting with a good-quality design, choosing the right stabiliser, and improving your hooping technique, you can achieve clean, accurate results every time.