Whether you have a Kobo or a different model, our instructions will help you customise the sleeve to fit your device perfectly.

If you are looking for a tablet sleeve that has the ability to close, then please take a look at our Closed Tablet Sleeve Project →.

What you'll need:

Shop online:

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Cutting instructions:

e-readers and tablets come in a variety of sizes and shapes so make sure you adjust the measurements to suit your e-reader. We have created our e-reader protective sleeve for the Kobo Libra H20 but will show you how to work out the measurements for your e-reader.

Firstly we need to measure the length and width of your e-reader in inches to get your starting value.

We wanted a sleeve that was easy to insert and remove the e-reader quickly, while still providing protection. To achieve this, we added approximately 2" to the starting value for both the length and width measurements and then rounded up or down to the nearest whole inch to allow flexibility when trimming once quilted.

For example the Kobo Libra H20 measures 6¼" x 5¾" .

cut size calculation

Length: 6¼" + 2" = 8¼". Rounded down to 8"
Width: 5¾" + 2" = 7¾". Rounded up to 8"

Making our final Cut size: 8" x 8"

Proceed with cutting your fabrics:

• Cut two of pieces of your outer fabric in your final cut size
• Cut two of pieces of your inner fabric in your final cut size
• Cut two piece double sided fusible foam in your final cut size
• Cut one bias strip 2” x WOF from your binding fabric
• Cut one bias strip 2.5” x WOF from your binding fabric

Method:

Bias Tape Making:

Choose your method of bias/binding creation and create one 2" binding, and one 2.5" binding.

Methods of bias/binding creation:

• Folded method with iron

  Press in half, then press in half again to create a long binding strip. Then fold the ends in and press so there are no raw edges.

  

  

  

• Simplicity bias maker method

  Use the Simplicity bias maker to create your bindings. Below is a video on how to use the Simplicity bias maker.

  

  

Fusing the Foam:

Take one outer fabric and one inner fabric and fuse to each side of the fusible foam with your dry iron.

Repeat this with the other pieces, so you end up with 2 pieces of fusible foam with fabric fused to either side.

Construction:

1. Attach your walking foot to the machine and quilt the pre-prepared fabric/foam squares with matching thread.
   

   
2. Square up the two pieces to make a better shape for binding, and help fix up distortions caused by quilting. We squared our blocks to 7¾" x 8". If you need some help with squaring your pieces, take a look at Rachael's video on Squaring up Patchwork Blocks.
3. From the 2" bias strip, cut two pieces to match the measurement of the top of the squared up quilted panel. In our case this will be 2" x 7 ¾".
4. Change your thread to match the binding. Fold the bias strip over the top of the fabric square and clip in place using your Echidna clips. Using your machine, stitch along the top ⅛" from the edge.
   

   
5. Place the two squares so that the inner fabric is facing together and the edge with the top binding is aligned.
6. Take the previously cut 2.5" binding strip and press in half with wrong sides together. Attach the strip around the outside of the rectangles, allowing 1½" excess at the top corner of the rectangle, continue laying the binding around the outer edge. Don’t forget to mitre the corner by folding the binding on the two corners. Clip in place and trim the excess making sure to leave 1½" binding surplus on the other side.
   

    
   
   You can watch our video on how to bind a quilt and follow the same principles.
7. Begin sewing around the binding ¼" from the top edge of the rectangle all the way around the edge until the binding is stitched in place with corners mitred.
   

    
8. Fold the binding over the top of the e-reader sleeve, and around the outer edge to the back to enclose the raw edges. Use clips to hold it in place and hand stitch in place.
   

    
9. Your e-reader protective sleeve is now ready for you to slide your e-reader inside.
   

   

Don’t forget to show us your finished projects on Instagram or Facebook #echidnasewing #madebyme

 

With their vibrant colors and fun shapes, these EVA foam animals will not only bring joy to your little ones but also enhance their sensory development. Let them explore the ocean floor, swim alongside brilliant fish, and befriend charming sea creatures, all from the comfort of their bath or shower.

Crafted with precision using the innovative Brother ScanNCut cutting machine, these foam animals are durable, safe, and easy to clean. The ScanNCut technology ensures the perfect cut every time, making it a breeze for you to create a whole menagerie of sea creatures for your child to enjoy.

Design files:

In this project, we have chosen to use a variety of sea creature designs from the built-in patterns available on the SDX models of Brother ScanNCut. However if you have a different brand cutting machine we recommend using a paper cut type of design for best results.

Designs used include:

• AR-C009 (Clam)
• AR-C0010 (Starfish)
• AR-C0011 (Fish)
• AR-C0012 (Fish)
• AR-C0013 (Whale)
• AR-C0014 (Dolphin)
• AR-C0015 (Seal)
• AR-C0016 (Octopus)
• AR-C0017 (Seahorse)
• AR-D004 (Crab)
• AR-G008 (Anchor)

Refer to the SDX1200 pattern list →

NOTE: Some designs consist of multiple layers and may require you to merge the layers before proceeding to cut.

Designs Available on SDX ScanNCut models

What you will need:

Step overview:

Step one

Place the piece of EVA foam on your machine mat. Tape in place if needed.

Step two

Load and cut out the design.

Step three

Unload the mat from the machine and gently remove the cut out piece

Step four

Remove any loose inner cuts.

Step five

Spray the foam shape with water.

Step six

Stick the cut out foam shape on your tiles above your bath, in the bath tub or on your shower screen.

Step seven

Repeat the steps to create more creatures.

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TIP:

If your little one likes to chew on everything, simply stick the EVA foam stickers on the other side of the glass. They can still have fun looking at them, but they can't grab them and put them in their mouth.

Detailed instructions:

1. Place the piece of EVA foam on your machine mat. Use masking tape to hold the foam securely in place. This will also help to keep the foam as flat as possible and reduce any chance of movement.
2. Load the mat into your machine.
3. Load the desired designs. (If you have a Brother ScanNCut do a quick scan of your mat to make sure the design is positioned correctly on top of the foam)
4. Adjust your machine settings to be suitable for cutting foam. For ScanNCut SDX users you will need to ensure the half cut option is OFF.
5. Proceed with cutting the design.
6. Once the cutting is complete, unload the mat from the machine and gently remove the cut out piece from the mat.
7. Remove any loose inner cuts.
8. Spray the foam shape with water.
9. Due to the porous nature of foam, when you add a little bit of water it adheres very well to the smooth surfaces like glass or porcelain.
10. Stick the cut out foam shape on your tiles above your bath, in the bath tub or on your shower screen.
11. Repeat the steps to create more creatures.
    

    

We will be joining  forces once again with sewists, embroiderers, and crafters throughout Australia to create a patchwork quilt in support of the Australian Melanoma Research Foundation.

Our aim for this community project is to create a symbol of hope and solidarity for all those who have been touched by melanoma, and a reminder of the need for research and action to fight this disease.

Creating Flowers in the Sun nudges us to remember the significance of being sun safe in our sunburnt country, and serves as a timely reminder to get regular skin checks. This project is also a fun way to challenge yourself and learn some new creative techniques and let your craft ‘shine’ to create something meaningful.

Who can create this project?

Participation is open to any creator in Australia, simply choose which block to make on your chosen machine, create, then send your contribution to us. 

There are four different styles of block you could choose to make, or you could try all four! These include:

• Machine Embroidery Block
• Machine Embroidery Applique block
• Sewing Machine Applique block
• a block created with heat transfer vinyl for all the cutting crafters!

From March to June 2024 we will show you how to create each block using different techniques.

Design file requirements

To join this project, we kindly request the purchase of the design pack, which includes all design files intended for use in the project. All proceeds from the purchase of this product throughout the 2024 calendar year will be donated to the Australian Melanoma Research Foundation.

[%SET [@product_skus@]='E-DESIGNFIS'/%] [%load_template file:'cms/embeds/product_list.template.html'/%]

Background fabric requirements

During each demonstration, we will provide a list of products used to create each block. If you're sending in your contribution, please use any solid blue shade for the background fabric and ensure the final fabric block is 12" x 12" to allow us to trim the blocks as needed. We just ask that you centre the design on the block as best as you can.

[%SET [@product_skus@]='MAS500-SWHY, MAS500-WIBL, DV097, DV081, DV009'/%] [%load_template file:'cms/embeds/product_list.template.html'/%]

How can you follow this project?

Demonstration videos will be released between March to June 2024 where we will show you how to create each block using different techniques. The finished project will be revealed in September 2024.

Machines Used

• Merrylock overlocker - set to 3 thread narrow (If you don’t have an overlocker, use your sewing machine following the same steps and use a ¼” seam, and neaten your seams with a zig zag.)
• NV180 Sewing Machine - Buttonholes

Material Requirements

• PDF Wedge Pattern  Download →
• 1 x fat quarter - Carrot base
• 1 x 9" x 5” rectangle Carrot top
• Thread matching Carrot Base
• 3 x threads matching base or top for overlocker
• 4 x pieces softaway stabiliser - cut 1” x 2” (use offcuts from other projects)
• Blue marking pen or tailors chalk
• Small patchwork ruler for measuring

Method

• Cut a 1” strip by the width of the fat quarter and set aside
• Cut 4 x Wedges for the carrot base from the fat quarter
• Cut rectangle to 8 ¾” x 4 ½” - carrot base
• Fold each wedge in half, and mark with blue pen or tailors chalk. Measure 1” down from the top of the wedge. This is where the button hole will begin. Repeat for the other wedge pieces.

Stitching Steps

Buttonholes

• Place a piece of stabiliser underneath the T marking on your wedge piece and slide under the buttonhole foot.
  Using the markings on the foot, line up the top mark and straight line in the buttonhole foot. Stitch your buttonhole. Repeat for the other wedge pieces.
• Remove the softaway, and cut open the buttonholes.
  

Overlocking or Machine piecing

• Set your machine to stitch 3 thread overlock stitch. This stitch has been chosen as it is narrow and about the same size as a ¼” seam.
• Stitch the wedge pieces right sides together in pairs. Begin overlocking from the bottom of the wedge. You should have 2 x sets of 2 wedges.
• Place the two sets together, nesting the seams at the bottom of the carrot. Stitch each side in place.
• Overlock the bottom of the wedge, trim threads.
  
• Fold the rectangle in half vertically, overlock together.
  
• Fold the rectangle in half again with overlocked seam on the inside of the carrot top.
  
• Attach the carrot top to the top of the carrot base, raw edges together.
  
• Overlock around the top, ensure raw edges of the fabric stay level as you stitch.
  
• Turn in the right way and cut the carrot top 1cm apart to create the fluffy finish.
  
• Thread your 1” piece of fabric through the buttonholes.
  
• Stuff with eggs or other goodies that can be found on the Easter Egg Hunt.
  

You will be able to transform your old calendar fridge magnets into something special using our free designs. 

Download the files for this project →

Free design files:

These include:

• Alphabet letters split into 3 DL Fridge Calendar size: 99 x 210mm (.svg)
• Extra Vowels & Common Letters in DL Fridge Calendar size: 99 x 210mm (.svg)

Bonus Sizes:

• Alphabet in A4 (.svg)
• Alphabet in 12” x 12” (.svg)

Download Now →

Choosing your medium:

We have created this project using old fridge calendar magnets however, you can also use A4 magnet sheets or rolls that are available from your local office supplies or craft store.

What you will need:

• Cutting machine (Brother ScanNCut, Cricut, Silhouette, etc)
• Permanent adhesive vinyl (3 colours of your choice)
• Scraper
• 3 x Calendar Magnets (99mm x 210mm)
• Masking tape
• Scissors
• Design files - Download here →

Shop Online:

[%SET [@product_skus@]='M7-180R,M7-181R,M7-151R'/%] [%load_template file:'cms/embeds/product_list.template.html'/%]

Step overview:

Step one

Remove any old stickers on the calendar fridge magnet, and apply adhesive vinyl over the top of the magnet.

Step two

Trim any excess vinyl that is overlapping the magnet.

Step three

Place the magnet on your machine mat. Use masking tape to hold the magnet in place firmly if needed.

Step four

Load the first .svg and proceed with cutting the design.

Step five

Repeat with the remaining 2 sets of letters to complete your alphabet.

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Detailed instructions:

1. Download the .svg files and save these onto a USB to plug it directly into your cutting machine.
2. Attempt to remove any old stickers on the calendar fridge magnet, sometimes this will likely leave a paper texture which will be easier for the vinyl to adhere too.
3. Cut a piece of adhesive vinyl to the rough size of the magnet.
4. Now we need to apply the adhesive vinyl over the calendar fridge magnet. To do this start by peeling back the backing sheet by about an inch or 5cm. Place the magnet face down on the vinyl as close to the edge as possible.
5. Flip over the magnet with the 5cm of vinyl attached and continue to pull the rest of vinyl backing over the magnet. At the same time use your fingers or a scraper to push the vinyl onto the magnet as this will help reduce any bubbles.
6. Trim any excess vinyl that is overlapping the magnet.
7. Place the magnet on your machine mat. Use masking tape to hold the magnet in place firmly if needed.
8. Adjust your machine settings to be suitable for cutting the thicker medium. (The SDX range of Brother ScanNCut will do this automatically if you have enabled this setting). Note that some machines will go over the design multiple times to cut through the magnet.
9. Load the mat into your machine.
10. Load the first .svg (If you have a Brother ScanNCut, do a quick scan of your mat to make sure the design is positioned correctly on top of the magnet).
11. Proceed with cutting the design.
12. Once the machine has finished cutting your design, unload the mat from the machine and gently remove the cut magnet.
13. Repeat steps 2-11 to create the remaining 2 sets of letters to complete your alphabet.
14. Place magnets on your fridge or other magnetic surface and write messages to your kids.
    

Download the file for this project →

Free design file:

These include:

• Kangaroo (.svg)
• Cork_Hat (.svg)
• Australian_Flag (.svg)
• Australia (.svg)
• Aboriginal_Flag (.svg)

Download now →

What you will need:

• Cutting machine (Brother ScanNCut, Cricut, Silhouette  etc)
• 12" x 12" scrapbooking card or A4 card sheets
• Roll of string
• Design files Download here →

Choose your variations:

We have provided four Australian based designs to use on your Australian inspired bunting. We suggest you choose your desired layout and colour variations before proceeding; this will help you identify which designs you want to cut out in which colour.

Red and blue

Green and gold/yellow

Step overview:

Step one

Place the scrapbooking card on your machine mat and cut out the Australian Continent design.

Step two

Once completed, unload the mat from the machine and and gently remove the cut cardstock from the mat.

Step three

Feed the string through the hole cut out at the top of the first design loop.

Step four

Repeat with all designs until you have created your bunting in the required length.

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Detailed instructions:

1. Download the .svg files and save it onto a USB to plug it directly into your cutting machine.
2. Place the scrapbooking card on your machine mat. Use masking tape to hold the card firmly in place if needed.
3. Load the mat into your machine.
4. Load the AustralianContinent .svg. (If you have a Brother ScanNCut do a quick scan of your mat to make sure the design is positioned correctly on top of the cardstock).
5. Adjust your machine settings to allow for the cardstock thickness. (The SDX range of Brother ScanNCut will do this automatically if you if you have enabled this setting)
6. Proceed with cutting the design.
7. Once the machine has finished cutting your design, unload the mat from the machine and gently remove the cut cardstock.
   
   
8. Lay out all your cut out designs in the order you wish to display them in.
9. Cut your piece of string to the desired length. We recommend spacing the designs approximately 15-25cm apart so that they do not get tangled with each other.
10. Feed the string through the hole cut out at the top of the first design loop it around and feed it through the hole again so that it locks the design in place (as pictured).
    
11. Measure roughly 15-25cm and repeat Step 10 with the next design until your bunting as reached the desired length.
12. Hang your bunting from the wall, you can easily do this with wall hooks or Blu Tack.

Our free design files provided for this project will make a card size of 140mm x 140mm square to suit 160mm x 160mm envelopes.

Download the files for this project →

Free design files:

These include:

• SantaSleighCard (.svg)
• SantaSleighCard (.fcm)
• ChristmasTreeCard (.svg)
• ChristmasTreeCard (.fcm)
• BlankCard (.svg)
• BlankCard (.fcm)
• SquareInner (.svg)
• SquareInner (.fcm)

Download Now →

Christmas Cards Artwork
Blank Card and Inner Artwork

What you will need:

• Cutting machine (Brother ScanNCut, Cricut, Silhouette etc)
• Low tack mat or one suitable for paper
• 1 x White 12" x 12" Scrapbooking Cardstock or 2 x A4 Cardstock
• 1 x Maroon A4 Cardstock
• 1 x Navy A4 Cardstock
• 160mm x 160mm Envelopes
• Vinyl Spatula
• Washi Tape
• Design Files Download Now →

Shop Online:

[%SET [@product_skus@]='WASHI-TAPE,EC-VW-Bundle'/%] [%load_template file:'cms/embeds/product_list.template.html'/%]

Step overview:

Step one

Cut out the card shape from a piece of scrapbooking or A4 card.

Step two

Cut out the card inner from a piece of coloured A4 card.

Step three

Insert the inner into the card shape by simply slotting the corners of the card into the angled cut outs.

Step four

Add your personalised message to the right hand side and close it up, ready to give to someone special this Christmas.

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Detailed instructions:

1. Download the .svg files and save them onto a USB to plug it directly into your cutting machine; alternatively you can load them in CanvasWorkspace and send them to your machine via Wifi.
2. Install the Standard ScanNCut Blade into your ScanNCut by following the steps outlined in your machine's quick reference guide.
3. Place the white scrapbooking card or A4 card onto a low tack adhesive mat, starting in the top left hand corner making sure it sticks well. Feel free to use a roller or scraper to secure the card in place if needed.
   Tip: Using Washi tape can help keep the card stuck to your mat should it begin to lose its tack. However, it is important to note that the more fibrous your paper is the more likely it is to tear when you peel the tape off. Using high quality paper will minimise this risk.
   
4. Load the mat into your machine.
5. Load the SantaSleighCard.svg. (If you have a Brother ScanNCut do a quick scan of your mat to make sure the design is positioned correctly on top of the cardstock).
6. Adjust your machine settings to allow for the cardstock thickness. (The SDX range of Brother ScanNCut will do this automatically if you if you have enabled this setting)
   Tip: We suggest doing a test cut to ensure you have your settings correct for the medium you are using. Cutting a small hole in the corner of your mat is a lot less upsetting than cutting a large design straight through your mat.
7. Proceed with cutting the design.
8. Once the machine has finished cutting your design, unload the mat from the machine and gently remove the cut cardstock and any additional cut outs from the card.
9. Flip the card over and fold along the scored line. Set aside.
10. Place the navy A4 cardstock onto a low tack adhesive mat, again starting in the top left hand corner making sure it sticks well.
11. Load the mat into your machine.
12. Load the SquareInner.svg. (If you have a Brother ScanNCut do a quick scan of your mat to make sure the design is positioned correctly on top of the cardstock).
13. Proceed with cutting the design.
14. Once the machine has finished cutting your design, unload the mat from the machine and gently remove the cut cardstock.
15. Now open up the card you set aside and insert the inner by simply slotting the corners of the card into the angled cut outs.
16. Add your personalised message to the right hand side and close it up, ready to give to someone special this Christmas. Repeat the same steps to complete the ChristmasTreeCard or try making your own using the blank card and adding your own design via CanvasWorksace.

With the use of applique, quilting, heat transfer vinyl, and embellishments, this project has all the elements needed to create the perfect wall hanging that everyone will gush over.

Materials & Supplies

• 1 x Gingerbread Felt
• 1 x White Felt
• Rotary Cutter
• Cutting Mat
• Hot Melt Web
• Softaway/Tearaway
• Threads to match Applique (we used Hemingworth Embroidery Thread)
• Corespun Thread or Rasant for piecing
• Fabric Marking Pen
• Light box
• Echidna Clips or Pins
• Variety of buttons for eyes and embellishments
• Cording or ribbon for embellishments
• Pencil
• 505 Spray
• Iron or mini iron
• Wool Pressing mat
• Red DMC Thread for hand stitching
• Hand needles
• Sewing machine
• Open toe foot
• ¼” foot
• Walking foot
• Dynamic walking foot
• Brother Compact Dual Feed MuVit Foot
• Wool 60/Poly 40 quilt batting
• Heat Transfer Vinyl

Fabric & Batting

• Variety of fat quarters to create Applique Shapes (Try to match the colours to your feature fabric)
• 1 x metre white applique background fabric
• .25cm blue frame
• 1 x metre Feature & Border fabric (You will need 1.2 metres if the fabric is directional)
• 42" x 49" Backing Fabric
• 42 " x 49" Batting Wool 60/Poly 40 quilt batting

Layout:

Designs:

• Chrissy Spirit Sewing Applique
• Chrissy Spirit SVG for Heat Transfer Vinyl (HoHoHo-Layered.SVG)

Shop online →

Fabric Cutting

Applique Blocks

Referring to each applique pattern, choose the fabric you will use for each character or shape. Place in individual plastic bags and keep together. Set aside until you are ready to begin the applique process (refer to instructions below).

White Fabric

• Cut nine 10½” x 10½” squares
• Cut twelve 3½” x 2½” rectangles
• Cut two 2½” x 10½” strips

½ Square Triangles

1. Select 6 x fabrics from the fat quarters for the triangles.
2. Cut one 3.5” x 3.5” square from each of these different fabrics.
3. Cut six 3.5” x 3.5” squares of the white background fabric.

Frame

• Cut four strips of 1.5” x WOF

Feature & Border Fabric

• Cut four strips of 2.5” x 10.5”
• Cut four strips of 1" x 10.5”
• Cut four strips of 4.5” x WOF

Instructions

All seam allowances are ¼” unless stated otherwise.

1. Choose the applique patterns you wish to include in your hanging and print the A4 sheets. We have used 4 patterns and repeated the Gingerbread character twice, creating a total of five applique blocks. Follow these instructions to Applique →
2. Take one 10.5” x 10.5” background square, position the applique onto the square, iron in place. Repeat this process until all the appliques have been fixed to the background squares. Set them aside. Watch our video on how to create sewing machine applique →
3. To make the ½ square triangles take the 6 x precut white and coloured squares and pair one white square and one coloured square with right sides together. Using a pencil, draw a line from corner to corner on the wrong side of the white fabric. This is a cutting line and will not be seen.
   

   

   
4. Stitch ¼” along each side of the diagonal line, repeat for the 6 squares.
5. To make the ½ square triangles take the 6 x precut white and coloured squares and pair one white square and one coloured square with right sides together. Using a pencil, draw a line from corner to corner on the wrong side of the white fabric. This is a cutting line and will not be seen.
   

   
6. Using your patchwork ruler, square up the half square triangles to measure 2.5” x 2.5”. Set aside. Repeat until you have 12 x ½ square triangles for each present box. Set aside.
7. Begin to create the Applique Square “present box” by stitching one strip of the 2.5” x 10 ½” feature fabric to the top of the applique square. Set aside.
8. To create the bow strip (above the feature fabric strip) stitch two of the previously squared ½” square triangles with white sides together, press the seam open.
   

   

   
9. Take two 3½” x 2½” rectangles and with right sides together, stitch onto each end of the half square triangles. Repeat this step until you have 7 x bow strips.
10. Sew each row onto the top of the feature fabric from step 7 for the 5 x applique blocks.
11. To create the “present box” without applique, take one 10½” x 10½” square and cut it in half.
12. Sew one strip of the 1” x 10½ ” feature fabric to one piece of the previously cut square. Attach the second piece of white fabric to the other side of the feature fabric. Press.
13. Using a rotary cutter, cut a 1½” strip from the top of the reconstructed square. Sew a 1” x 10½” strip of feature fabric to the top of the square. Attach the previously cut 1½” x 10½” strip to the feature fabric, and press.
14. Square up the block so it measures 10½“ wide x 9¾” high.
15. Stitch a bow strip from step 9 to the top of the 2½” x 10½” strip on your present box.
16. Stitch a white strip 2½” x 10½” to the top of the present block above the bow, the block should measure 10½” x 14”. Repeat these steps to create one more “present box”. Set both blocks aside.
17. Check the size of each of the 4 x applique and 2 x present blocks - they should measure 10½” x 14”.
18. Place each block into three rows of three. The centre row will be the remaining two 10½” x 10½” white squares and the single applique block (we chose Australia with Santa Hat) without any present bow on top.
19. The two white blocks will have the “Ho Ho Ho” pressed onto them with Heat Transfer Vinyl once the wall hanging has been quilted.
20. Stitch each block into a row, press the seams to one side so they will nest together.
21. Stitch the three rows together until you have a completed square.
22. Measure through the centre of each of the rows vertically from top to bottom. You should have 3 measurements. Add them together, and divide by 3 to get an equal measurement. This will be the size of the frame fabric for the sides of the big square.
23. Cut two strips of frame fabric to the measurement from step 22.
24. Stitch both frames onto the side of the wallhanging.
25. To get the correct size of the frame for the top and bottom of the square, measure through the 3 x blocks horizontally and repeat steps 22-24 to have a fully framed wall hanging.
26. Add the borders, repeating the measuring, cutting and sewing steps from steps 22-24 with the frame now included.
27. Your wall hanging top is now complete!
28. The next step is to sandwich the quilt together, and choose your method of quilting. Quilt the three layers together.
29. Press “Ho Ho Ho” onto the two white blocks with Heat Transfer Vinyl. Find out how to use Heat Transfer Vinyl →
    

    

    

    
30. Now it is time to use your imagination, get creative and embellish the Applique blocks.
    

    
31. Your wall hanging is complete!
    

    

Products used:

[%SET [@product_skus@]='KIMBERBELL-FELT, E-Rotary28, CUTTINGMAT, E-HMW, E-SOFTAWAY, BLUEPEN, E-LIGHTBOXA4, E-CLIPSMALL, 505, 171020, E-PM3838, NV1800Q_Options, F085AP, DF2AP, M120, ESVG-CS, EDS-CS, SHTVGLITTER'/%] [%load_template file:'cms/embeds/product_list.template.html'/%]

This project is great for all sewing levels, from beginner to advanced.

What you'll need:

• Sewing machine
• Rasant thread (To match your fabric)
• Fabric: 1 piece of 15" x WOF (one fabric for both sides or use 2 different fabrics for either side)
• Nylon zip (we recommend using a zip roughly 1-2" bigger than your pillow)
• Sewing scissors
• Ruler & measuring tape
• Pins and small clips
• Zipper sewing foot
• ¼” sewing foot
• Universal sewing needles 90/14
• Iron & ironing board
• Optional: Overlocker

Step Overview

1. Measure your desired pillow (length and width, and add ½” onto each measurement for seam allowance. For example, our pillow measurents are: 13” + 0.5” = 13.5” x 13.5”.
2. Cut 2 pieces from your chosen fabrics in the required dimensions.
3. Overlock each edge to prevent the fabric from fraying (If you don’t have an overlocker, you can skip this step or use a zig-zag stitch).
4. Align your zipper on the short side (or any side if your pillow is square) of one of your fabric pieces, right sides together.
5. Sew your zip onto the first fabric piece using your zipper foot and a straight stitch.
6. Repeat steps 4 and 5 with the other side of your zipper and your other piece of fabric.
7. Press the seams flat with your iron.
8. Optional: Top stitch both zipper seams.
9. Fold your pillowcase in half, with the zipper on one edge and your fabric right sides together. Make sure your zipper is at least half open.
10. Pin or clip to secure.
11. Sew together the two sides and bottom of the pillow case together with a straight stitch and a ¼” seam allowance. Make sure you go all the way up through the ends of your zipper.
12. Square off the corners to make them nice and pointy when turned right side out.
13. Turn pillowcase right side out.
14. Press all seams flat with your iron.
15. Finish by putting your desired pillow insert into your newly made pillowcase.
16. All done!

Popular Pillow Sizes

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Whether you're a coffee shop owner looking to impress your customers or a coffee enthusiast who loves experimenting, custom coffee art stencils offer endless possibilities. So, grab your cutting machine and let your imagination run wild as you elevate your coffee experience to a whole new level of artistic delight.

Download now →

Free design files:

These include:

• KoiFishCoffeeStencil (.svg)
• BlankStencilShape(.svg)

Download now →

These coffee stencils have been designed to fit a large mug or cup with a diameter of 100mm (4"). If you wish to make these for a smaller cup, please resize the SVG in CanvasWorkspace.

Koi Fish Stencil Shape

Blank Stencil Shape
Instructions →

Choosing your medium

You can complete this project using a variety of mediums for your Coffee Art Stencil. We will be repurposing the plastic protective covers from Colour Hide note pages (as pictured), however you could use alternatives such as food grade mylar or other stencil plastics.

IMPORTANT NOTE: Make sure you check the maximum media thickness that your cutting machine will allow and ensure that the medium you are using does not exceed this. The artwork may need to be scaled to suit the size of your medium.

Step overview:

Step one

Remove the plastic sheet from the front of the notepad and place it on your machine mat. Use masking tape to hold the plastic firmly in place.

Step two

Cut out KoiFishCoffeeStencil from the plastic sheet. Make sure your machine allows cutting of the thicker medium.

Step three

Remove the plastic from the mat.

Step four

Remove the inner cuts from the plastic.

Step five

Make yourself a frothy coffee and hold the stencil as close as possible without touching the foam.

Step six

Using a shaker, sprinkle either drinking chocolate or cinnamon on top of your cuppa and enjoy your creation.

Step seven

Sit back and admire your art before you take a sip.

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Learn how to create your own stencil in CanvasWorkspace

We have put together step by step instructions on merge designs using the blank SVG to achieve a custom coffee art stencil.

View instructions →

Detailed instructions:

1. Download the .svg files and save these onto a USB and plug it directly into your cutting machine.
2. Remove the plastic protective front sheet from the notepad so that you only have the plastic front sheet.
3. Place the piece of plastic on your machine mat. Use masking tape to hold the plastic firmly in place. This will also help to keep the plastic as flat as possible and reduce any chance of movement.
4. Load the mat into your machine.
5. Load the KoiFishCoffeeStencil.svg. (If you have a Brother ScanNCut do a quick scan of your mat to make sure the design is positioned correctly on top of the plastic).
6. Adjust your machine settings to be suitable for cutting the thicker medium. (The SDX range of Brother ScanNCut will do this automatically if you have enabled this setting). Note that some machines will go over the design multiple times to cut through the plastic.
   Tip: We suggest doing a test cut to ensure you have your settings correct for the medium you are using. Cutting a small hole in the corner of your mat is a lot less upsetting than cutting a large design straight through your mat.
7. Proceed with cutting the design.
8. Once the machine has finished cutting your design, unload the mat from the machine and gently remove the cut plastic.
9. Remove the inner cuts from the plastic.
10. You will now have a Coffee Art Stencil. Make yourself a frothy cuppa and hold the stencil as close to the coffee as possible without touching the foam.
11. Using a shaker, sprinkle either drinking chocolate or cinnamon on top of your cuppa. It would be best to use a chocolate powder shaker or a mini sieve.
12. Sit back and admire your art before you take a sip.
13. Now try create your own custom design using our instructions for CanvasWorkspace below.

Create your own design stencil:

1. Open the BlankCoffeeStencil.svg in CanvasWorkspace.
2. Load the design you wish to add or add a built-in design from CanvasWorkspace. Select a colour for the shape so that it is easy to see.
3. Select the design you have just loaded and resize the design svg to be approximately 3" or 75mm within the Edit tab.
4. We now want to select both shapes and center them both horizontally and vertically.
5. With the two shapes still selected, select the Subtract icon under the Process Overlap section. This will remove the smaller shape from the stencil shape leaving you with the perfect coffee stencil.
6. Export your design and follow our the detailed instructions above using your created shape.

What you'll need:

• 8” zipper (not metal)
• CoreSpun Polyester Thread to match fabric
• Rotary Cutter
• Cutting Mat
• Marking Pencil/Frixion Pen
• Mini Iron
• Wool Pressing Mat
• Spray Starch
• Seam Gauge
• Sewing Machine
• Zipper Foot (suitable for your machine)
• TNC 80/12 Universal Needle
• Quilting Ruler
• Washaway Quilters Tape
• Echidna Small Clips
• Purple Thang
• Thread Snips

Fabric requirements:

• 1 x Fat Quarter - Outer
• 1 x Fat Quarter - Inner
• Fabric Scrap 3” x 2” - Zipper Tabs

Jump to steps →

Shop online:

[%SET [@product_skus@]='E-Rotary28, CUTTINGMAT, SW-FC-S6, 171020, E-PM3838, HSSS, ST-A23, NV50S_Options, TNCUNI, K-KPR95D, ER787, E-CLIPSMALL'/%] [%load_template file:'cms/embeds/product_list.template.html'/%]

Step Overview

1. Firstly, iron your fabrics to ensure easy cutting.
2. Cut the zipper tab fabric 3” x 2” or use a quilt binding remnant. You need two zipper tabs.
3. Create the zipper tabs: If it is not already folded, fold fabric in half lengthways and press. Fold each side of the tab fabric with raw edges to centre of the strip and press. Fold in half again and press. Repeat for the 2nd tab.
4. Cut the outer and inner fabric rectangles 9” x 7”.
5. The zip should be 1” smaller than the pouch - we use an 8” zip.
6. Take the zip and trim the end so the stopper is at the edge of the zip.
7. Cut four pieces of washaway tape and attach to the inside of each tab.
8. Take the pre-prepared zipper tab and remove the protective paper from the washaway tape on each side of the tab. Press the zipper with the stopper nesting into the folded edge of the tab. Finger press in place on both sides. Repeat the same process for the other end of the zipper tab.
9. Cut two pieces of washaway tape, and tape to the topside of the zip on each side of the zipper teeth.
10. Attach the zipper foot and sew along each end of the zipper tabs, ensuring top and bottom of the zipper tab are aligned.
11. Trim the zipper tabs back to the edge of the zip.
12. Take one outer rectangle and mark the centre onto the wrong side of the fabric.
13. With the zipper tabs now attached at each end of the zipper, measure and mark the centre of the zipper.
14. Remove the protective sheet from the tape, and matching the centre point from the fabric, press the outer fabric right side down onto the top of the zip. Finger press the fabric onto the zip.
15. Cut another piece of washaway tape, and press onto the underside of the zip. One piece of washaway tape on each side of the zipper teeth.
16. Remove the protective sheet from the tape, and aligning the inner fabric with the previous outer square, finger press in place. The zip should look sandwiched between two pieces of fabric.
17. With the zipper foot aligned with the edge of the fabric, begin stitching from the edge of the zipper tab to the other end of the zipper tab (Note: this will leave approx ½” unsewn at each end of the zipper pouch). Press the inner and outer fabric away from the zipper teeth.
18. Repeat steps 12 to 17 for the other side of the zip.
19. Press each side of fabric away from the zipper teeth with your iron. Top stitch around the zipper using the zipper foot.
20. Use the stitching on the zipper tabs at each end as a guide to turn and sew over the zip to topstitch along the other side.
21. Unzip the zip half way.
22. Take the two outer pieces and fold up with right sides together. Clip together with small Echidna clips. Do the same with the inner fabric pieces.
23. Where the tabs and two inner and outer seams meet, squeeze together so the tab flattens a little. Clip all four seams together. Repeat for the other side.
24. Beginning two inches in from the corner of the bottom edge of the inner fabric, sew around the outside of the zipper pouch with the zipper foot. Try not to remove the clips holding all four seams together, until it is essential. Sew slowly ensuring the zipper foot captures all four seams together on each side.
25. Trim the corners of the inner and outer fabric and turn the zipper pouch the right way out through the inner fabric and the zip. Poke the corners with a tool that gives a sharp look, and press with your iron.
26. Machine sew the turning gap closed and press again.
27. Congratulations! You are finished!

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Gone are the days of searching through stacks of stabilizer to find the right one for your project. With this innovative DIY solution, you'll have everything at your fingertips, making your sewing and embroidery process smoother and more efficient. So, grab your sewing machine and get ready to turn your workspace into a well-organised haven of creativity. Let's dive in and discover how to create your very own stabilizer holder that combines functionality with style!

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What you'll need:

Shop online:

[%SET [@product_skus@]='XJ1_Options, XP3_Options, E-PTF, H-057-1264, RASANT-0825, S-BTM, 505, K-KPR2406, E-Washaway, E-Supersolve, PWBABLACK12, PWBAWHITE12, KDTL100, E-SSF-White'/%] [%load_template file:'cms/embeds/product_list.template.html'/%]

Cutting instructions:

Fabric reference: backing fabric, backing feature fabric, hanging tabs, fabric pockets, binding

Feature fabric:

1. Cut 30” x 51” for the backing feature fabric.
2. Cut 6 strips across the WOF x 1½” wide for the sides of each fabric pocket.
3. Cut 4 strips of 2.5” x WOF for the binding.

Pellon
Cut the same size as the backing feature fabric (30” x 51”).

Twill Fabric
Packet 1
Cut into 3 strips of 19½” x WOF, then cut each strip down to two pieces of 16.5” x 19½”. You should be left with 6 strips for the fabric pockets .

Packet 2
Cut a strip 25 ½” x 19 ½” for the hanging tabs. Cut the same size as the backing feature fabric 30” x 51” for the backing fabric.

Embroidered Badge Labels:

Cutting: Cut a 7” x 3” shape of Stiff Specialty felt for each badge you are making.

1. Transfer the badge label designs onto a USB to move to your machine or if you have a Wi-Fi enabled Brother, you can use Brother Design Database Transfer.
2. Hoop a single layer of Washaway Stabilizer in your 130mm x 180mm (5" x 7") embroidery hoop.
3. Load the chosen badge label design on your machine.
4. Thread your machine with the chosen colour.
5. Stitch out the placement line.
6. Remove hoop from the machine and place the Stiff Felt on top of the placement line, tape in place.
7. Return the hoop to the machine and stitch the tack down stitch.
8. Remove the hoop from the machine and trim the stiff felt back to ⅛” past the stitching line.
9. Place a piece of Supersolv over the stiff felt and tape in place covering the label.
10. Return the hoop to the machine and stitch out the badge name.
11. Once completed pull the excess SuperSolv off.
12. Stitch out the final colour in the sequence to finish off the badge with a satin stitch edge.
13. Keep the badge in the hoop and use a paint brush with a bit of water and wet the washaway stabilizer around the edge of the badge, this will cause the washaway to dissolve and leave you with a badge.
14. Make sure the badge is laid flat to dry. Attach the sticky back hook and loop tape onto the back of the badge ready to be added to your holder.

Construction:

1. Iron the Pellon onto the wrong side of the backing feature fabric fabric.
2. Pre-quilt the backing feature fabric fabric and the Pellon together using your chosen method. For this project we have quilted the background piece using a built-in design on the Brother Luminaire embroidery machine but you could use any quilting design, redwork design if you don’t have any designs built into your machine.
3. Once quilted, fold the backing feature fabric in half lengthways, mark the centre of the quilted fabric using your quilting ruler and your choice of fabric marking pen. Set aside.
4. Using the 6 x 1½” strips previously cut to make bias tape. These strips will be attached to the raw edges of each side of the fabric pockets. To make the bias strips we will be using the Simplicity Bias Tape Maker. Attach the 1” bias tip and create the binding using the Bias tape maker. Watch our video on how to use the Bias Tape Make →
5. You will end up with six lengths of bias tape, and each length will be cut down to twelve 16½” strips.
   

   
6. Using your sewing machine attach the 1” binding strips to the two short sides of each of the six fabric pockets.
7. Fold fabric pockets in half lengthwise and overlock or zigzag the two raw edges together.
8. To create hanging tabs fold the tabs fabric strip in half lengthways with right sides together, and sew a ¼” seam. Turn, so the seam is on the inside of the tab.
   

   

   
9. Iron the fabric strip with the seam in the centre of the tab.
10. Cut into 3 equal lengths to create the hanging tabs for the top, set aside.
11. Line up the first fabric pocket by placing it 1½” from the top raw edge of the backing feature fabric making sure the overlocked or zigzag edge of the fabric pocket is at the top.
12. Attach the hanging tabs to the top of the Stabilizer holder. Fold each of the hanging tabs in half and pin in place along the top of the Stabilizer Holder, making sure the raw edges overlap the top of the fabric pocket and the folded side is facing up. Start by placing the first tab in the centre along the top of the Stabilizer Holder and then attach the two remaining tabs so that they are 2½” in from each side of the holder.
13. Using a walking foot, a straight stitch and a ¼” seam, stitch along the top of the pocket securing the tabs and pocket in place.
14. To hide the overlocked/zigzag edge, use a piece of bias tape and stitch along the top of the pocket and tabs.
15. Now we need to attach the remaining 5 fabric pockets. Fold the pockets in half and mark the centre with chalk. Using this mark, centre the pocket onto the backing feature fabric centre position (done in step 3), pin in place. Continue pinning the rest of the fabric pockets in place using a tape measure to ensure the top of the next fabric pocket is positioned 6” below the previous pocket. Stitch in place using a walking foot. Continue until you have stitched all 6 fabric pockets in place.
    

    
16. Spray baste the wrong side of the backing fabric onto the back of the Pellon. Using a walking foot, stitch along the top of each pocket to quilt the three layers together.
17. Make the binding by sewing the 4 x binding strips together to create one long length, fold in half and press. Attach the premade binding strip to the outer edge of the Stabiliser Holder and stitch in place.
    Note: When approaching the top of the project, ensure the tabs are folded down towards the pockets so they don’t catch in the binding. Once the binding is attached fold the tabs up, and sew along the edge of the outside of the binding to reinforce the tabs to stand up.
    

    
18. Decide where you would like to place the embroidered badges and attach the hook and loop to each pocket.
19. Hang up and fill with your stabilisers!
    

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